Old Vine Grape In Lodi – A Monster of a Plant In California
Imagine dropping letters in a mailbox standing inside the evil aura of this grape vine monster.
Grape plants like this have been growing in Lodi since the early 1900s. Last winter we spotted this plant on Kettleman Street (Highway 12) on the east side of town. We wondered what kind of grape it produced. Was this one of the old vine Zinfandels touted by winemakers in the area? What kind of wine would come from such a plant?
During a recent visit we stopped to photograph the leaves, the fingerprints of the plant. Perhaps a winemaker could identify the vine.
While standing near this gargantuan grape plant a frail Japanese woman emerged from the house nearby, gently shuffling down the driveway with her walker. Here is the answer we seek.
“Oh those grapes are such a nuisance, my husband planted them after World War II. They are Tokay grapes he farmed. But he’s gone now and they’re a bit of a chore to maintain.” According to her the two were interned during the war, returning to Lodi afterwards to restart their lives. Flame Tokay grapes were a staple at the time and they commenced to growing the grape.
As late as 1974, 2.7 million boxes of Flame Tokay grapes were grown in Lodi each year. By 1990 Lodi’s production had fallen to 100,000 boxes according to the Lodi News. It seems the seedless grape, which flourished in Southern California, took the market away from the Flamed Tokay and the farmers who grew them.
‘As you take in the plant’s scope, it’s size, you realize this grape plant represents the life cycle of the family.’
Like many businesses switching gears when time and tastes change the farmers began planting grapes they could sell, plants like Zinfandel and Syrah. Now, there are 100,000 acres of premium wine grape growing in the Lodi appellation.
As you take in the plant’s scope, it’s size, you realize this grape plant represents the life cycle of their family. Pushing sprouts out in the spring, then flourishing with clusters of fruit in summer, then shedding dying leaves in the fall. The plant following it’s yearly ritual begun after World War II.
Similar to the family cycle, in spring time mom & dad form a fresh union and field children who grow up. Their children grow-up over the years. But then comes harvest, then winter. The father’s gone, mom lives in the shadow of the plants and all the children have moved away starting their own families.
In the meantime here in Lodi, plants like this provide sustenance to families growing up in California’s Central Valley. Here, plants & families continue their year to year ritual.
Bill Hodge & Erin O’Neill-Hodge enjoy a good bottle of wine, visiting and enjoying California wineries from Lake County to Orange County, from the Paso Robles Gold Coast to Gold Country and from Lodi to Temecula.
